Caratteristica: Ambiente selvaggio di fronte al Monte Rosa

  • Ferrata Montevecchio

    Ferrata Montevecchio

    Vie Ferrate › Piedmont › Vercelli
    Ferrata Montevecchio

    Inaugurated in 2016, Ferrata Montevecchio dates back to an ardent ridge in the upper Valsesia. It never has too difficult traits, but it is very varied and exposed and it goes also on the return, facing numerous passages in un Discounted climbing: it requires good experience and training.

    ▲Approach

    The starting point is Carcoforo, in the upper Valsesia (Vercelli), which can be reached from Varallo, going up the valleys; it is parked in the wide beach in the center of the village. Starting point on Google Maps. Follow the path 113, first in falseland then steeper but always well marked, up to the Rifugio Massero (2082 m). Beyond the refuge you go up to a crossroads where you hold the left towards the Colle della Bottiggia, ignoring the right track; the track is reduced but omits and signs lead in the progression. There is a stony valley between the rocks up to the rocky carving of the Colle della Bottiggia (2607 m), where the ferrata begins (2h 45' from the parking lot); at the beginning of the season the last stretch can present snow. Alternatively you can climb from the Colle Vallè, on the north-east ridge, which leads to the anticyme for a easier line; however, the relationship considers the ascent from the Colle della Bottiggia, more challenging, and the ring return from Colle Vallè.

    ▲The path

    From the hill the cable starts on a vertical wall where it is best to look calmly for the hooks, not immediately obvious: the first meters are vertical and the exposure grows quickly. Risalita the plaque follows the crest with short vertical sections, beams and blinds on both sides; the vertical steps are always assisted by abundant cambres, therefore little tiring and technical, but by hand the exposure increases and the passages are more varied, with climbs and short descents, up to the anticyme (2777 m). Here you can see the cable coming from the west ridge, uphill from the Colle Vallè (return option). From the anticyme we continue on coricated steps, then a short stretch of non-banal descent leads to the top: we face a vertical wall, a split in the rock and an exposed fireplace (the key passage), followed by a short vertical; a horizontal stretch, a descent and the last metres of uphill ridge lead to the metal cross of Pizzo Montevecchio (2789 m, 2h from the attack, 4h 45' total).

    ▲Back from the ferrata

    The road does not end up at the top: first return to the anticyme retracing the last stretch, then you choose between two options. The first is to retrace entirely backwards the ferrata of the way (1h 30' from the term, 6h 15' total). The second — recommended to close in part a ring — is the deviation that from the anticyme, where on the left a metal cable is known, descends along the western ridge to the Colle Vallè: simpler line because less vertical and exposed, but still not trivial, with some well equipped vertical points. From Colle Vallè a path on the slope of Val Quarazza, marked with green signs, leads to the Colle della Bottiggia crossing some lands (1h 30' from the end of the ferrata, 6h 15' total).

    ▲Character and difficulty

    Recent Ferrata alternating abundant equipment in the vertical sections with more exposed and varied passages left to the autonomy of the hiker, between jumps, beams, chimneys and slits. Very beautiful and wild environment.

    ⚠ The wide stretches of climbing, especially when returning, are not trivial. For altitude and exposure it is not rare to find verglas or ice traits on the north side of the ridge: necessary experience, training and reliable weather.
    ▲Discipline

    From the Colle della Bottiggia you return to the same route path (2h from the hill, 8h 15' total).

    ▲To match

    In the nearby valleys you can face the adjacent days Ferrata Detomasi in Alagna Valsesia and, more downstream, the Ferrata Falconera, la Ferrata Partusac e la Picasass Ferrata.

    ▲Gallery
    Technical data
    • DifficultyHard
    • RegionPiedmont
    • GroupPennine Alps – Valsesia
    • Approach2:45 h
    • Ferrata2:00 h
    • Itinerary (a/r)7:30 h
    • Hardware level difference180 m
    • Route difference1485 m
    • Max2789 m
    • Length12,6 Km
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