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  • Ferrata di Preore (Giro Artpinistico delle Niere)

    Ferrata di Preore (Giro Artpinistico delle Niere)

    Vie Ferrate › Trentino-Alto Adige › Trento
    Ferrata di Preore (Giro Artpinistico delle Niere)
    Moderately Hard● OpenDescriptionComplexityMapsGallery

    The Ferrata di Preore, also known as Giro Artpinistico delle Niere, is a pleasant low-altitude street near Preore, near Tione di Trento. Alterna easy and moderately difficult passages and has the unique characteristic of accompanying many traits with works of art in wood, from which the name "artpinistico".

    ▲Approach

    Coming from Trento or Riva del Garda, just before Tione a roundabout points to the right the climb to Preore. Enter the village, on the left there are directions to Passo Daone and Larzana; after the first bend you park at the picnic area of the rock gym. Starting point on Google Maps. From the parking lot you go to the gym, from which you leave two paths: you hold the right (the one left will be the return) and, climbed some tiring wooden steps, you reach the attack with the white plate (5' from the parking lot).

    ▲The path

    The street begins with a diagonal stretch to the left that wanders an easy edge; a step is set up to the most demanding point, a vertical wall on the right with good natural but a little distant from each other. Besides an easy dihedron follows a vertical wall with some metal brackets, then a series of small rocks closes the first part, the more vertical. Continue on the path and cenges without difficulty (where exposed are assured), in the most rich section of works of art; climb into the wood until a characteristic staircase between two narrow rocky walls and a panoramic balcony, beyond which begins the second part equipped, with a long horizontal traverse exposed but well appreciated. Attached a edge, after a short vertical and a stretch of wood you get to a bell, where an optional suspended bridge offers a variant that meets shortly after the original route. It follows a not difficult traverse on the right (with the book of signatures), a well-equipped vertical wall, a short traverse on the left and a couple of easy descents; the path then descends into the wood, always between wooden sculptures, where the equipment ends (about 1h 30' of equipped path).

    ▲Character and difficulty

    Ferrata varies and fun that concentrates the technical difficulties in the first vertical section; the rest is a succession of paths and paths equipped at low altitude.

    ⚠ Although easy in the complex, the first section requires familiarity with the vertical; suspended bridge and beams are exposed. Helmet and essential hardware set.
    ▲Period and safety

    The low altitude makes it accessible practically all year round, with dry rock.

    ▲Discipline

    You descend along the path until you return to the rock gym and then to the parking (10' from the end of the equipment, about 1h 45' total).

    ▲To match

    In the area, towards Trento, the two difficult Ferrata Pisetta e Ferrata Segata, reserved for well-trained experts; easier but very long Ferrata Che Guevara. To Riva del Garda the easy Ferrata Rio Sallagoni e la Ferrata Colodri.

    ▲Gallery
    Technical data
    • DifficultyModerately Hard
    • RegionTrentino-Alto Adige
    • GroupJudges
    • Approach0:05 h
    • Ferrata1:30 h
    • Itinerary (a/r)1:45 h
    • Hardware level difference260 m
    • Route difference270 m
    • Max812 m
    • Length1,3 Km
  • Ferrata di Pietra Nera

    Ferrata di Pietra Nera

    Vie Ferrate › Emilia-Romagna › Parma
    Ferrata di Pietra Nera
    Very difficult● OpenDescriptionComplexityMapsGallery

    The Ferrata di Pietra Nera dates back to a curious mountain of dark ophiolitic rock in the Parmensi hills, a few kilometers from Salsomaggiore Terme. It is a short but surprisingly varied itinerary, divided into three sections with a completely different character; the modest quota (vetta at 677 m) makes it available practically throughout the year.

    ▲Approach

    From Salsomaggiore Terme take the SP359 towards Bardi and turn right at the junction for the hamlet of Grotta (about 40' from the A1 toll of Salsomaggiore-Fidenza). Crossing the village, just before the deviation for Case di Pietra Nera, you leave the car in the pitches along the road; on the opposite side, beyond a bar, part of an unnumbered CAI path marked in white-red — there is no sign for the ferrata. Starting point on Google Maps. Follow the path in the woods and, bypass some rocky ridges, in about ten minutes you reach the attack.

    ▲The path

    The route is divided into three net sections. The prima è real hardware: you climb a non-banal initial dihedron, then a più plaque; lean; follows a horizontal beam to be followed in adherence, you climb a edge and you get to the key passage, a traverse with the low chain, to be faced with looseness and to close quickly (15' from the parking &# The seconda non è section; equipped: è a stretch to climb into free climbing on rocky difficult ` growing, protected by spit — first some rocks of I degree, then a spur of II and finally a diedron of III (10', 35' from parking). The terza comes back in a piece: you go around a corner, you climb an easy diagonal ramp and you get to a rock blade, where you can può choose — on the left the easy line, with some metal brackets, which leads to the summit without problems; on the right the difficult variant, which faces the chain without artificial hooks and requires good technique forch&eac. The two lines rejoin over a corner and in a few minutes close the short street (5', 40' from the parking lot).

    ▲Character and difficulty

    Even short and low, it should not be taken under the boat. Three technical steps, if faced without leaning on the chain, require good climbing technique, and the central section goes free (I-III) on spit.

    ⚠ Technical itinerary despite the brevity: helmet, set from ferrata and familiarity with the rock are indispensable. Drained with wet rock, which makes the traverses in grip and the final blade.
    ▲Period and safety

    At 677 m of altitude it is practicable almost all year round, including the beautiful winter days; to avoid after the rain.

    ▲Discipline

    From the peak of Monte Pietra Nera (677 m) you descend in two ways: right along the crinaletto to the provincial road and back right down to the car (15', 1h from the parking lot); or left to the CAI path to the saddle between Pietra Nera and Monte Canate, then right on a mule track up to the car (15').

    ▲To match

    Just 40' from the motorway exit, it is perfect as a stopover. In the surroundings of the Apennines between Emilia and Liguria: Ferrata Mazzocchi e Ferrata Adolfo Ferrari on the border between Piacenza and Genoa, the Ferrata Deanna Orlandini, la Ferrata del Barranco del Dolo, la Ferrata Monte Penna and the ways of Stone of Bismantova.

    ▲Gallery
    Technical data
    • DifficultyVery difficult
    • RegionEmilia-Romagna
    • GroupHanging Parmense
    • Approach0:10 h
    • Ferrata0:20 h
    • Itinerary (a/r)1:00
    • Hardware level difference70 m
    • Route difference150 m
    • Max677 m
    • Length1,7 Km
  • Ferrata dei Piceni in Pioraco

    Ferrata dei Piceni in Pioraco

    Vie Ferrate › Brands › Macerata
    Ferrata dei Piceni in Pioraco
    Moderately Hard● OpenDescriptionComplexityMapsGallery

    The Ferrata dei Piceni is a recent route and the only via ferrata delle Marche, near Pioraco (Macerata). It is overall easy, but has a couple of athletic traits that require a minimum of training; short and low altitude, you can travel almost all year round.

    ▲Approach

    The SP 361 goes up towards Pioraco; before the village, in correspondence of the sign "Cartiere di Fabriano", after about 200 meters you take on the left an asphalted road uphill until a small church where to park (you can see the signs of the ferrata). Starting point on Google Maps. Follow the CAI signs in the woods to the red plate that marks the beginning of the ferrata (30' from the parking lot).

    ▲The path

    The first equipped section is downhill and serves as a handrail; then there are parts equipped in the wood, of low difficulty, on rock at times muschiata (attention to adherence). You reach a wall with a slightly overhanging attack that climbs vertically with different cambres; the road follows a rather vertical line, exploiting abundant cambres on polished rock. After a horizontal stretch you get to the key passage: a vertical wall with overhanging roof that requires discreet force of arms in the first two changes of carabiner (the artificial brackets help, but it is not underrated). Passed the wall, a short ladder and still cambre, moving to the right, lead to the end of the ferrata, where is the book of the signatures (30', 1h from the parking lot).

    ▲Character and difficulty

    Interesting way in a little known environment: the smoothed rock and abundance of cambre mark the progression. Suitable for neophytes, with a couple of more athletic steps requiring a minimum of training.

    ▲Discipline

    The trail goes up to a crossroads with the signs for the return, which takes place in the woods (20' from the end, 1h 20' total).

    ▲To match

    There are no other equipped routes in the surroundings. The nearest are on Gran Sasso: la Ferrata Danesi, the Ferrata Ricci and, on the southern slope, the Ferrata al Bivacco Bafile and the long Path of the Centenary; in Umbria the Ferrata delle Gole del Serra.

    ▲Gallery
    Technical data
    • DifficultyModerately Hard
    • RegionMarche
    • GroupApennine Umbro-Marche
    • Approach0:30 h
    • Ferrata0:30 h
    • Itinerary (a/r)1:20 h
    • Hardware level difference200 m
    • Route difference377
    • Max768 m
    • Length2,7 Km
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