La Ferrata Cesco Tomaselli climbs the west wall of the Punta di Fanes Sud: a vertical, demanding way, with exposed and technically difficult passages. It is short but very intense, with a series of athletic passages that require experience and strength; from the summit the panorama spans the Tofane and the Dolomites of Badia.
The più mode; quick & free; climb to the Passo Falzarego (2105 m) and take the cable car to the Lagazuoi Refuge. Open road signs on Google Maps. From the mountain station (2752 m) descend north with trail 401 towards the Forcella Lagazuoi (2573 m, 15'); the left on the trail 20 in falsepiano, then to the right the 20B halfway on the west wall of the Great Lagazuoi to the site of the 'ex Bivacco della Chiesa (2655 m, 1h from the refuge), now dismantled. From here, già visible l' attack, a track north leads under the wall all' attack (1h 15' totali).
Il key passage is immediately to attack: after the first easy meters you face a traverse that climbs diagonally on a polished wall, then obliges you to descend 2-3 meters very exposed, a horizontal traverse on smooth rock and a 4-5 meters lift; selective and poor stretches of hooks, to walk decided not to fatigue your arms. On a terrace there is a breath and a vertical and exposed wall of about twenty meters, più perched on the top, up to a detritic terrace. A section of exposed and unprotected path and a nod with ups and downs lead to ' start of the second section equipped: horizontal nod, stepped rocks, un' another nod exposed to the right, you get around a corner and you reach the terza section (attention not to follow the left the Ferrata at Cengia Veronesi). There is an entangled plaque, then vertical passages sometimes assisted by pioli, up to the characteristic long dihedron equipped along a deep crack: the first vertical and poor feet of hooks are passed tractioning on the cable, then the rope crosses the dihedron (uses a comfortable right bracket) and continues air to a pulpit in fork. Two very exposed plates, first vertical then diagonal, and a short ridge lead to the summit at Cima Fanes Sud (2960 m, 1h 45' from the attack, 3h from Lagazuoi), with 360° view.
Vertical and exposed, athletic, with thick rock: the initial traverse and the long dihedron are the most selective traits. Level difference in ferrata 326 m, maximum altitude 2980 m, development 7.5 km.
Dalla vetta si prosegue a nord-est e si scende per una via ferrata di discesa impegnativa: balzi verticali da studiare, un traverso con breve passaggio strapiombante e la discesa di un camino (staffa provvidenziale a metà), poi una cengia e gli ultimi metri verticali fino al canalone che porta al Bivacco della Chiesa (45' dalla vetta, 3h 45' totali). Da qui, per la funivia, si torna a ritroso al Rifugio Lagazuoi (45', 4h 30' totali); in alternativa si tiene la sinistra del crinale verso la Forcella Travenanzes e si scende al Passo Falzarego tra i resti della Grande Guerra (1h 15' dal termine della discesa attrezzata, circa 5h totali).
From Falzarego and Lagazuoi: the Kaiserjager Trail, la Ferrata Fusetti at Sas de Stria, la Alpine Brigade at the Col dei Bos; towards Cortina la Ferrata dell'Averau and on the Tofana of Rozes la Ferrata Lipella.
- DifficultyVery difficult
- RegionVeneto
- GroupFanes
- Approach1:15 h
- Ferrata1:45 h
- Itinerary (a/r)4:30 h
- Hardware level difference326 m
- Route difference326 m
- Max2980 m
- Length7,5 Km
