Caratteristica: Iconico tavolo con panche ancorato in parete

  • Ferrata Pursteinwand

    Ferrata Pursteinwand

    Vie Ferrate › Trentino-Alto Adige › Bolzano
    Ferrata Pursteinwand
    Very difficult● OpenDescriptionComplexityMapsGallery

    The recent and athletic Ferrata Pursteinwand climbs up a steep slope on the eastern side of the Aurina Valley, above Campo Tures. It is a short itinerary but not to be underestimated, which requires strength and technique and does not lead to a peak but to a panoramic point on the valley. For style — polished rock and abundant metal equipment — it recalls more the French ferrates of the Western Alps than the classic Dolomite routes.

    ▲Approach

    The starting point is Campo Tures, in Valle Aurina, reachable from Brunico; just before the village, in an industrial area, you park at the last building. Starting point on Google Maps. You follow the signs for the ferrata and the rock gym towards the wall, well visible from the parking lot; you pass under the wall on the floor, then to the right you take the marked deviation. A sign of stone fall is held on the right, climbing a rocky slope up to the attack sign (15' from the parking lot).

    ▲The path

    The attack is under a long tilted black plate. The first meters, vertical and often humid, with a couple of brackets, then bend to the left before a difficult oblique traverse to the right: immediately you notice the figure of the street, a compact and smooth rock that, in the absence of natural hooks, obliges you to use a lot of the cable. You climb vertically on narrow brackets up to a challenging leap with a overhanging belly, to be overcome with good force of arms; diagonally to the left and then on an exposed and difficult traverse to the right you gain a panoramic terrace on the Aurina Valley. A pair of vertical and diagonal tears make gain altitude and exposure before a long traverse, less challenging but challenging for the distance between the brackets; it comes out on an exposed edge where the cable changes direction of 90° and goes right up to one of the most iconic points of the street, a table with two benches anchored to the rock, with the feet almost empty. The last part is the most vertical: a wall smoothed with many brackets, a short oblique traverse on the right, a very athletic overhanging stretch at a corner, the passage under a roof with a first metal scale to overcome of momentum, then the cable bends left under an evident rocky roof. On a strong display there is a new vertical and a traverse on the right (providential brackets when the energies fall), then a overhanging leap with a second metal scale in the lower part, whose exit remains very demanding and requires good technique or traction on the cable; the last meters are a right traverse without hooks and some vertical passages closing the street (1h 30' from the attack, 1h 45' total).

    ▲Character and difficulty

    Athletic and anomalous Ferrata for the South Tyrolean landscape, which deliberately seeks technical difficulties and overhanging passages on polished rock; it varies, with many horizontal and obliquious traverses that also test the expert Ferratists. Recent equipment and in good condition.

    ⚠ It requires strength, technique and absence of dizziness. Useful to bring a fectuccia or a referral to rest in the most demanding traits. Itinerary short, ideal on uncertain days where a long excursion is not recommended.
    ▲Discipline

    From the end you follow the trail in the forest that leads in short to a road; you keep the right downhill and, following the signs (cartel 27A), you descend to Campo Tures and on asphalt you return south to the parking lot (30' from the end, 2h 15' total).

    ▲To match

    In the Aurina Valley, further north, the long and challenging mountain route of the Ferrata del Ghiste-Camino al Sasso Nero; near Campo Tures the difficult Ferrata Hans Kammerlander (2022). To the south Ferrata di Valdaora and, towards the Alps of Sesto, the Ferrata dei Costoni di Croda Rossa.

    ▲Gallery
    Technical data
    • DifficultyVery difficult
    • RegionTrentino-Alto Adige
    • GroupValle Aurina
    • Approach0:15 h
    • Ferrata1:30 h
    • Itinerary (a/r)2:15 h
    • Hardware level difference200 m
    • Route difference380 m
    • Max1125 m
    • Length3,4 Km
Need help? Write to us!