The Ferrata di Punta Marmotta is a recent route that dates back to a granite spur above the Nino Corsi Refuge, in Val Martello (Stelvio National Park). It is excellently protected: easy in the first two sections and more challenging in the third (evitable), for a moderately difficult set. Attention to the exposure to the north, which keeps it in shadow much of the day.
Start from the bottom of the Val Martello (Martelltal), valley perpendicular to the Val Venosta: from Goldrano you enter the valley and continue south for about 30 km, over Ganda di Martello and Lake Gioveretto, up to the parking area. Starting point on Google Maps. The first reference is the comfortable refuge Genziana (2051 m), where the valley ends; from here in about 30' you go up to the refuge Nino Corsi (2265 m) for one of the paths 151, 36 or 37 (the 151 is the most direct and allows you to reach the ferrata without passing from the refuge). From the Nino Corsi, in the west direction, you can see Punta Murmele; following the path, at a first crossroad you hold the right (left go down the path of return) and in short you arrive to the attack, in shadow (45' without haste from the parking lot).
The street consists of three sections separated by two escape routes to the left, which lead to the return path. The first climbs to the left alternating short vertical stretches to the right, with reduced difficulty; after 30-40 meters you will meet the first escape route. They follow easy rocks and a right-hand side, panoramic, then some diagonal leaps with a couple of passages a little more challenging until the second escape route: here it is best to evaluate if to continue, because the last section is tougher, with a considered difficult passage and a little athletic. The third section begins easy and leads to a more demanding wall, with a right-handed traverse from the good supports for the feet but few sockets for the hands; then you get to the key passage, a roof wandering on the right that goes up with some brackets, in good exposure and with a certain athletic point but not difficult; besides, a vertical wall and the last rocks close the way.
The escape routes and increasing difficulties make it an excellent learning ferrata; pleasant environment and still at relatively low altitude.
From the end you follow the trail that brings you back to the refuge (15'), from which you return to the parking lot for one of the paths of sighting (3h total). If you want to stretch, after the ferrata you can graft on path 103 and climb to the Rifugio Martello (2600 m), with magnificent views over the glaciers of Marmotta and Cevedale.
Going back to Val Venosta, towards Merano: la Ferrata Hoachwool e la Ferrata Knott in Naturno, and the Ferrata Heini Holzer to the Picco Ivigna; going up to Solda the high altitude routes Ferrata Tabaretta to the Ortles and the Cengles Croda Ferrata, e la Ferrata di Trafoi along the state of Stelvio.
- DifficultyModerately Hard
- RegionTrentino-Alto Adige
- GroupOrtles-Cevedale
- Approach0:45 h
- Ferrata1:30 h
- Itinerary (a/r)3:00 h
- Hardware level difference100 m
- Route difference290 m
- Max2340 m
- Length4,7 Km
