Gruppo: Val di Susa

The Ferrata Perona-Saglia alla Rocca di Clarì, in the upper Val di Susa, is one of the most demanding and beautiful in Piedmont. Athletic but also very varied, it alternates vertical walls (equipped and not), climbing traits, air passages, beams and short disarrampicate along the thread of an uphill edge. It is not suitable for neophytes and requires good training and absence of dizziness.

Departure from Claviere (Turin). Two options: park along the straight between Claviere and Cesana Torinese, in a dirt square before the tunnel, or at the campsite of Claviere, where the path for the Tibetan bridge "Sergio Bompard". Starting point on Google Maps. From the first you descend a path towards the Gorge of San Gervasio, you go up the river and, cross it on a bridge, climb on the right horogram until the attack (15'); from the second you go down steeply to the creek, cross it and climb right up to the sign of the ferrata, which attacks a few meters above the path (15').

The route is divided into 15 sectors, each with its own name. It is attached to the vertical wall («La Lama»), with brackets and climbing passages, immediately gaining altitude on the stream; inside a canalone and after a right turn a vertical blade is up on the brackets, then a rocky cres with natural hooks. The "Far West Crossing" crosses the "Canale della Bomba" and reaches the gendarme of the "Fungo Magico", climbed over the brackets, circled and crossed along a narrow and exposed blade. After the stop of the «Pian della Birra» you pass the franosa throat of the «Via dei Camosci» and you get to the most climbing section, «Le Taniche», on beautiful steps ranked. Follow the "Cengia Super Calcaire" and the "Costone della Pineta", then "El Paso Doble", a traverse on the left in light overhanging, short but very exposed. After the «Terrazzo del Generator» three beautiful sections remain: the «Gran Pilastro», with the cable on the edge and an exit at the center of the wall in strong exposure; «La Crepa», vertical and smooth wall made accessible by abundant brackets; and finally the «Scala Bionica», a steep vertical wall on brackets, aerial and exposed, with slightly overhanging athletic exit to the left. It exits at the top of the Rocca di Clari (2045 m), at the "Terrazza del Cippo" with the Italian flag (3h from the attack, 3h 15' total), with a view on Chaberton, Claviere and Cesana.

Excellently equipped, with brackets positioned intelligently and not invasively. The inguainated black cable forms a ring at the tokens: excellent in case of fall (it avoids the musketet-fittone clash), but little tense, therefore it is better to climb by exploiting hooks and natural and artificial supports. It requires good form and experience.

The route is dedicated to Mario Perona, Alpina Guide, and to Aldo Saglia, a helicopter pilot, very appreciated in Val di Susa, who died in Easter 2003 in a tragic helicopter accident. The idea of the ferrata was by Perona; the construction dates back to 2010.

You descend west on a clear track above the summit to some abandoned military stations, then on dirt road to La Coche (skiing plants) and still downhill to Claviere. Just before the village you turn right, cross a ski lift and take the path towards the Gorges of San Gervasio up under the Tibetan bridge; from the, depending on the parking lot, you return to the backward car (1h 30' from the downhill attack, 4h 45' total).

It combines with Ferrata del Bunker (of the Military) on the opposite side of the Tibetan bridge; always from Claviere the Low Battery Ferrata and the Chaberton Ferrata. The lower the valley offers the Ferrata dell'Orrido di Foresto e la Ferrata dell'Orrido di Chianocco.