La Ferrata del Twenty-fivennale at the Western Horn of Canzo, in the comasco, is a challenging route with rather long approach. It develops on a wall that makes little use of brackets: in order not to strain unnecessarily the arms on the chain it is advisable to climb, exploiting the excellent natural hooks.
It starts from the Sorgenti of Gajum, in Canzo (Como), where at the end of via Gajum c'è a deck to park. Open road signs on Google Maps. Da Gajum si raggiunge il Rifugio Terz'Alpe (sentiero lungo il torrente Ravella oppure per Prim'Alpe e Second'Alpe); dal rifugio si sale ripidi a nord verso la Colma di Pianezzo e, poco prima della croce, si segue a destra una traccia che per un ghiaione porta all'attacco (1h 45' da Gajum).
It sticks on a short plate leaning on the right, then on the left diagonally on a well-dressed wall up to a long smooth plate, originally without brackets and today with some artificial hooks: it should climb. Turn right into a narrow canal with two brackets, walk around a tree and face a long traverse to the right with good supports but not always easy hooks (use the chain to balance, without induging in the stretches in light overhangs). There is a non-banal dihedron, some small rocks, a vertical wall of medium difficult to use; and a wire scale of about 20 meters; after a belly and small rocks you can reach a well-equipped path and l' last pillar, which requires good technique on smooth plaques (some staff present). After the walls, follow the red boils to the right, descend the saddle and go up to the summit of the Corno Occidentale (1h 30' from the attack, 3h total).
Not long but with numerous technical steps, not recommended for beginners. The rope è often flanked or replaced by a catena coarse which sometimes prevents the carabiner to flow. Lifting height 250 m, total 900 m, maximum altitude 1373 m, development 11 km.
Two options. For a ripido Canalno (passages of I degree, slippery if wet) follow the red boils north to the fork of the Two Horns, then to the Rifugio Pianezzo and Gajum (1h 45' from the term, 4h 45' totali). Alternatively, go back to the path from the saddle to the ridge to a less steep canal, descending at the cross of the' approach and then to the Rifugio Pianezzo and Gajum (2h from the term, 5h total).
The most trained hikers can combine it in a long ring with Ferrata at Corno Rat, from Valmadrera.
- DifficultyHard
- RegionLombardy
- GroupLarian Triangle
- Approach1:45 h
- Ferrata1:30 h
- Itinerary (a/r)4:45 h
- Hardware level difference250 m
- Route difference900 m
- Max1373 m
- Length11 Km
