Stato: Aperta

The Ferrata Oliva Detassis is a great classic of the Brenta Dolomites: a long sequence of vertical metal stairs — more than one hundred meters of well constructed bastion — that connect the plateau below with the Bocca Bassa di Massodì (2790 m), entering the itinerary of the Bocchette Alte. The dolomitic environment of rare beauty abundantly compensates for the long approach.

Si parte dal parcheggio del Rifugio Vallesinella (Madonna di Campiglio, TN). Si sale nel bosco fino al Rifugio Casinei (1850 m), poi si segue il sentiero CAI 318 attraversando la Galleria Bogani — breve tratto esposto ma ben attrezzato. Si raggiunge il Rifugio Brentei (2182 m) in circa 2 ore e 15 minuti. Dal rifugio si prende il CAI 323 verso nord-est fino a un bivio: si ignora la deviazione per il Rifugio Alimonta e si piega a sinistra sul CAI 396 fino all’attacco della ferrata, raggiunto in circa 3 ore e 15 minuti totali.

L’ entrance to the ferrata takes place with a first staircase, followed by staffe metalliche which lead to a long sequence of scale vertical very exposed: the bastion exceeds 100 meters of vertical development and is excellently built, with the possibility to stop to rest on the stairs themselves. Halfway there is a stopover . After passing the second section of stairs and a final crossing you reach the Bocca Bassa di Massodì (2790 m). From here you can continue along the Bocchette Alte towards the Tucket Refuge.

Difficulty Moderately Difficult. The required technique is contained — the stairs have good brackets and chains — but the exposure is high and the altitude above 2700 m imposes caution in the evaluation of weather conditions. This ferrata is a variant of the Via delle Bocchette Alte, not a complete autonomous route.

From the Bocca Bassa in Massodì you descend on a path towards the Brentei Refuge and from there you return to the parking lot of the Vallesinella Refuge for the uphill road. Alternatively, continue the Bocchette tour towards the Tucket Refuge. Total tour time: about 10 hours.

The Sentiero Attrezzato SOSAT is one of the great classics of the Brenta Dolomites: a ridge itinerary that runs along a long stretch of the Bocchette, with ladders, fixed ropes and passages exposed in a dolomitic environment of great impact. Technically demanding — one of the most challenging of the Bocchette — but exceptionally panoramic from the Rifugio Pedrotti to the Bocca di Tuckett.

Starting from the Rifugio Pedrotti (2491 m), reachable from the Val di Genova or from Molveno following the CAI signs. From the hut follow the path north to the ’ attack of the Central Bocchettes — time of approach from the refuge: about 20 minutes.

The SOSAT runs through the Bocchette Centrali of the Brenta Dolomites with a sequence of vertical ladders, exposed hinges, fixed ropes and aerial beams. The most challenging steps are in the central part of the route, where the walls rise and l’ exposure becomes significant. It climbs up to the Armi Mouth and then to the Bocca of Tuckett (2648 m), where the equipped section ends.

Difficulty Moderately Difficult. It is one of the most technical and challenging routes of the Bocchette di Brenta: it requires experience of ferrata, absence of dizziness and good physical form. It is not an itinerary for beginners.

From the mouth of Tuckett you descend to the Rifugio Tuckett and Sella (2272 m) following the CAI path. From here you can return to Madonna di Campiglio with the cable car or on foot. Total itinerary from ’ Tuckett Bocca attack: about 5 hours.