viso Notice — The bidonvia that climbed to Forcella Staunies has been dismantled (July 2017) and is waiting for reconstruction to date to be allocated; the only way to reach the attack is today to trace the steep detritic valley of the Gran Staunies, on an unstable gravel bottom (at least 2h from the end of the chairlift). The Lorenzi refuge, at the beginning of the ferrata, is also closed. It is a long and challenging itinerary regardless: plan time and weather carefully.
The Ferrata Ivano Dibona is a wonderful ridge route on the Crystal Group. From Forcella Staunies runs through the entire ridge that descends to the Col dei Stombi, in a path of great landscape interest and rich in in indelible traces of the fighting of the Great War. The technical difficulties are not high, but some traits are exposed and above all the overall difference requires an excellent training.
▲Approach
Starting from the parking lot at the Restaurant Rio Gere, from which rises the chairlift that connects Rio Gere (1700 m) with the Son Forca Refuge (2215 m), along the road of the Passo delle Tre Croci that joins Cortina d’Ampezzo to Auronzo di Cadore, on the ampezzano slope (open up Google Maps). The attack is in Forcella Staunies (2932 m): from Rio Gere there are almost 1250 m of altitude, so it is highly recommended to use the chairlift up to the Son Forca Refuge. From here, dismantling the old bidonvia that climbed to the fork, the only solution is to climb up the detritic valley of the Gran Staunies, a steep channel and on unstable gravel bottom to deal with carefully, taking into account at least 2 hours from the end of the chairlift.
▲The path
Adding the Forcella Staunies you can see the silhouette of the Lorenzi Refuge, in a beautiful but closed position; behind it a metal staircase set in the rock gives start to the ferrata. After finishing the metal walkway, a ladder starts the first section, the most “ferrate” of the entire itinerary: a nod with a passage on a wooden walkway, a short passage that circumvents a rocky highlight with a couple of climbs without difficulty, some small rocks towards a rather short arcade that bends immediately to the left (not necessary twist) and a comfortable nod with wooden walkway. There are other small rocks and you will continue just below the ridge, with large passages and wooden walkways where the ground narrows, up to the suspended bridge of about 30 meters, one of the most iconic points of the route: turning you see the Lorenzi Refuge just left and the beginning of Ferrata Bianchi, which proceeded in reverse direction (15′ from the attack to the refuge, 2h30 total). The bridge is very large, built with wooden beams (a pair not fixed). Beyond the bridge a long metal staircase, divided into two sections, earns altitude and leads on the long ridge that characterizes this part of the route, well equipped with rope despite it is almost everywhere wide. After a slight descent to the Forcella Grande you will find a crossroads (2980 m, 15′ from the bridge, 30′ from the attack): you can go straight on the Dibona or take the optional turn left for Cima Cristallino, going up halfway to an insellatura and then on a corner not difficult to the base of the summit (2997 m, 10′ from the junction); you will climb preferably from the west side, Resumption downhill the Dibona, descends towards the Forcella Grande (2874 m), where on the right is the path to the Ferrata Renè de Pol at the Punta del Forame and you will meet some remains of snipers of the Great War; on the fork is held the left remaining on the Dibona. On the left side you pass next to the ruins of a former Italian military shelter and follow, under the Cresta Bianca, a section where you alternate paths, cenges, easy walks and walks equipped with a modest difference in altitude, up to the Forcella Padeon (2762 m, 2h from the attack included the deviation to the Cristallino, 4h15 total), where stands the Bivacco Buffa di Perre Guerra Continue on a half-coast on the south side of Vecio del Forame, with some exposed cenges at unprotected strokes, up to a detritic canalone that descends on the left with a long stretch, reaching first the Forcella Alta (2650 m) and then a fork (2490 m, 1h from the Bivacco Buffa di Perrero, 5h15 total). Here, while on the left the steep franous canal of Val Padeon is a difficult and little advisable escape route, continue straight on the path Dibona up to the Forcella Bassa (2450 m); then walk halfway without equipment along the Cresta dello Zurlon, climb a ladder that leads to some military ruins (2360 m, 40′ from Forcella Bassa, 6h total) and, after a short climb From Col dei Stombi you descend steeply, between bends and serpentine, up to the graft on the forest (CAI 203, 1700 m, 30′ from the hill, 7h15 total).
▲Character and difficulty
The technical difficulties are not high, but the itinerary is long and contracting, with exposed traits and some unprotected cenges; the difference in level to be faced is remarkable and requires excellent training. Historically it is one of the most fascinating routes in the Dolomites, scattered with traces of the Great War.
⚠ Itinerary very long (23 km, up to 10h) and challenging, with exposed traits and blinds at unprotected strokes: start early, with stable weather, and take into account the now more tiring access (risalita del Gran Staunies).
▲Period and safety
High mountain summer itinerary (max. 3008 m at Cristallino). The length, exposure and demanding access make it suitable for well-trained and autonomous hikers.
▲Discipline
Adding the forest is left on path 203, ignoring all deviations, up to Passo Son Forcia (2109 m, 1h45 from graft on the forest, 8h total). From here you can go up to the Son Forca refuge to take the chairlift that goes down to the Rio Gere (attention to the opening hours of the lifts), or keep the right on 203 until you turn left for the CAI 206 (1948 m, 20′ from the Son Forcia Pass), in the direction of Malga Lareto; go down on 206 until you find an exotic unmarked track that goes down to the Rio Gere (30′ from the end of the inn.
▲To match
From the Forcella Grande the Ferrata Renè de Pol to the Punta del Forame, natural continuation for those who still have energies.
