Paese: Italia

Ferrata Piero Rossi (formerly Ferrata Marmol) climbs to Forcella Marmol in the Schiara group. It is of medium technical difficulty, but it develops in a severe and demanding environment, with a very long itinerary; it lends itself to numerous combinations with the other ferrates of the Schiara.

Departure from Case Bortot (Belluno): from Belluno follow Bolzano Bellunese and the Parco delle Dolomiti Bellunesi, over Gioz, up to Case Bortot, where the road ends in a small street. Starting point on Google Maps. From the parking lot (695 m) follow the CAI 501 towards Rifugio VII Alpini: you descend to the Ponte del Mariano (30'), you ignore the junction with 507 and you climb to the forest along the Ardo stream until the clearing of Rifugio VII Alpini (1502 m, 2h 45'). Behind the shelter follow the CAI 503 signs towards the attack of Ferrata Zacchi, with which Piero Rossi shares the first hundred meters; passing through the characteristic Porton you reach the attack of Zacchi (45' from the refuge, 3h 30' total).

The first section is in common with the Ferrata Zacchi: immediately challenging attack (a few vertical meters and a right traverse on good rock and graded), then a flat stretch that enters a gorge with some ladders, a nod on the left and a horizontal plane under other exposed ladders, finally a canal with climbing traits and brackets. Cessate the equipment, a link path leads to the crossroads between Piero Rossi and Zacchi: the right is held and the real Ferrata Piero Rossi begins towards the Forcella Marmol. An unprotected nod leads to the southeastern slope of the Schiara in a first throat; the nod becomes equipped until a descent of about 8 meters, then wanders a throat (often snowy at the beginning of the season) and continues on climbing balconies under the looming walls of the Schiara, alternating cenges, rocks and path. Attached another cove, some ladders and a vertical tract precede a short break on the path, prelude to the more vertical section: plaques and walls with a fireplace with a zigzag cable, to be climbed into the split. Continue right on horizontal and diagonal traits and another vertical stretch on good rock, up to the path leading to the Bivacco Bocco Zago (2266 m, 2h 30' from the attack). Beyond the bivouac a vertical wall and a stretch on the left, then another stretch equipped with a view on the Cadore groups; past the crossroads for the east ridge of the Schiara descends the last stretch equipped to the Forcella Marmol (2262 m, 3h from the attack), where the itinerary ends.

Medium technical difficulty in harsh and spectacular Dolomite environment. Often inserted in the classic ring of the Schiara (salita con Zacchi o Sperti, summit with the Berti, return downhill with Piero Rossi, the easiest of the three downhill).

The ferrata is dedicated to the alpinist and writer Piero Rossi (1930), a great connoisseur of the Belluno Dolomites and among the promoters of the National Park, author of the volume on the Schiara of the series Guida dei Monti d'Italia. It was inaugurated in 1967, redesigning the descent from the Forcella Marmol and avoiding the old way to the Gola del Canalone, subject to frequent drains of stones.

From the Forcella Marmol more options: climb to the Pelf (1h 30') with the exhibited Sentiero Attrezzato Guardiano and get off the normal way to Case Bortot (11h 30' total); or climb to the Schiara for the east ridge and get off with Ferrata Berti and then Ferrata Sperti at Rifugio VII Alpini ( ring route, 14h 30' total). The quickest route is the return to the rear end (4h 30' from the fork, 11h total).

The Schiara is full of streets. To the east the Ferrata Costacurta al Teverone; little to the north three ferrates with short approach: the Ferrata della Memoria al Vajont, la Gym of Rock of Val Gallina e la Walls of the Hawks. To the Civetta la Titus and Alleghesi.