Difficoltà: Moderatamente Difficile

  • Ferrata Renè de Pol al Forame

    Ferrata Renè de Pol al Forame

    Vie Ferrate › Veneto › Belluno
    Ferrata Renè de Pol al Forame
    Moderately Hard● OpenDescriptionComplexityMapsGallery

    The Ferrata De Pol is a short route that climbs to the Punta Ovest del Forame, in the Group of the Cristallo, in a rather long itinerary full of traces of the Great War. The equipped stretch has only one challenging passage, a fireplace; the return is long and the first stretch of ridge between Forcella Gialla and Forcella Verde should not be underestimated.

    ▲Approach

    The starting point is the Cimabianche Pass, on the SS51 between Dobbiaco and Cortina d'Ampezzo. Starting point on Google Maps. You can park even further downstream, on the side of Veneto at the Restaurant Ospitale, but you should leave the car at the pass: a landslide of 2017 made the way back from the end of the ferrata to the Ospitale, forcing to return to Cimabianche. From the pass you descend on the path 208, which runs on the left the road in moderate slope, remaining on the right side of a stream; in the town of Pian del Forame (1495 m, 30' from the pass) follow the signs left for Ferrata Renè de Pol. It climbs east into the woods, steep, up to a signposted crossroads where the left is held (right descended the old path of return, today franate); northwards you go up a channel meeting some military shelters of the First World War, and an uphill nod leads to the attack (1945 m, 2h from the junction on the state, 2h 30' total).

    ▲The path

    You start with a short left turn, then the road continues without equipment to the right towards a canal; a rock that hinders the passage is reassembled with a metal ladder. Then go up on steep unprotected path following omits and red boils, then left on path at times equipped until a nod of military construction that leads to a fireplace. You climb it on the left side: a slightly athletic passage, then some pioli help in the remaining part. Exit from the fireplace you climb a vertical wall well-painted that bends right, then a wall of about twenty meters to the right; in the last stretch you go up a detritic canal with the rope on the right and on the path you reach the Punta Ovest del Forame (2318 m, 1h from the attack, 3h 30' total), with beautiful view on Croda Rossa d'Ampezzo, Monte Cristallo and Popena.

    ▲Character and difficulty

    The equipped sections do not have difficulty; the most challenging passage is the fireplace, however of average difficulty.

    ⚠ Itinerary long and quite isolated, return included along the wild Val Pra del Vecia. The downhill ridge path is a bit fragrant: walk through it with a stable time. Remember that from Forcella Verde it is no longer possible to go down to the Ospitale for the landslide, so you return to Cimabianche.
    ▲Discipline

    It descends on the opposite side, to the south-east, on steep path following the red boils up to Forcella Gialla (2400 m), then with a crest climb to Forcella Verde (2380 m). From here take the path 233, which descends along the wild Val Pra del Vecia to the Cimabianche Pass (2h 30' from the end of the ferrata, 6h total).

    ▲To match

    The area of the Cristallo is rich in equipped routes: on the Cristallo la Ferrata Marino Bianchion Pomagagnon Ferrata Strobel e il Sentiero al Terza Cengia del Pomagagnon. Going down towards Cortina la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la la Ferrata Ettore Bovero and the difficult Ferrata Sci Club 18.

    ▲Gallery
    Technical data
    • DifficultyModerately Hard
    • RegionVeneto
    • GroupCrystal
    • Approach2:30 h
    • Ferrata1:00
    • Itinerary (a/r)6:00 h
    • Max2424 m
    • Length11,3 Km
  • Ferrata di Punta Penia (cresta Ovest della Marmolada)

    Ferrata di Punta Penia (cresta Ovest della Marmolada)

    Vie Ferrate › Trentino-Alto Adige › Trento
    Ferrata di Punta Penia (cresta Ovest della Marmolada)
    Moderately Hard● OpenDescriptionComplexityMapsGallery

    The Ferrata di Punta Penia climbs up the western ridge of Marmolada to the highest point of the group (3343 m). It is a historical route that during the ascent does not present particular technical difficulties, but develops in a wild high mountain environment; the return takes place for the Marmolada glacier. An itinerary to be carefully planned for length, altitude difference and glacial conditions.

    ▲Approach

    The starting point is Passo Fedaia, reachable from Canazei (Trento) or from Malga Ciapela (Belluno); park in the square at the plants for Pian dei Fiacconi. Starting point on Google Maps. From the dam (2070 m) it once climbed into the cable car to Pian dei Fiacconi (2722 m); the plant is now closed, following an avalanche that destroyed the shelter, therefore it climbs on foot in about 1h 30' for the CAI 606 path. From Pian dei Fiacconi we continue west on CAI 606, on a glacial valley, bypassing the northern spallon of Punta Penia; we lose altitude up to 2470 m and then steeply go up the detritic valley towards Forcella Marmolada. Entering the Vernel glacier you should keep the central part (and not the left side); you can reach the right edge of the glacier until the first ropes, at a red sign (1h 45' from the mountain station).

    ▲The path

    The first ropes carry, without difficulty (short sloped plates and easy balconies), to Forcella Marmolada (2910 m, 2h total), where you will meet the path from Val de Contrin and the remains of war huts dug into the rock. Then a plate with no flats is climbed thanks to a series of brackets, continue on tracks until a sloped ramp equipped and at a more steep stretch with cambre; after a crossing with piles and brackets you enter a fireplace equipped with piles, brackets and a ladder. Exit from the fireplace, small rocks and a vertical wall lead to a long sloped ramp where the cable helps balance; it follows a plaque with brackets, quite lean, and then a stretch that seems to be repeated, alternating cambre and plaques, up to a panoramic terrace. The last section runs on the crest above the imposing bastion of the south wall of Marmolada: between modest climbers and easy rocks the equipment ends, and a last stretch without cable leads to the Capanna di Punta Penia and then to the summit cross (3343 m, 2h 15' from the attack, 4h totals).

    ▲Character and difficulty

    Technically the way is modest, but the environment is that of the high mountain, with all its pitfalls. It dates back to the early 20th century (1903, then known as Hans-Seyffer-Weg) and logically follows the weaknesses of the wall.

    ⚠ Itinerary of serious mountaineering. The cabin of Pian dei Fiacconi is closed: approach only on foot. Approaching and returning through snow and the glacier of Marmolada, today in strong retreat and solcato by crepacci: they serve experience, self insurance, ramps and reliable weather (conditions can change quickly). At the beginning of the season the fresh snow facilitates the climb; in late season you walk on live ice.
    ▲Period and safety

    High altitude road to be tackled in summer; planning must take into account the conditions of the Vernel glacier uphill and the Marmolada glacier downhill, as well as the weather.

    ▲Discipline

    It is possible to descend backwards along the ferrata, but the most logical descent, with a ring, reaches the Ghiste della Marmolada below after some stretches equipped downhill; then follow the obvious trace on the glacier — with attention to the crevices, especially in case of fog — up to the Rifugio Pian dei Fiacconi (26262626 m) and back downstream (1h 45' from the summit, 5h 45' total).

    ▲To match

    On the opposite side of the Marmolada runs the other historic street, the Eterna Ferrata at Piz Serauta, longer, exposed and difficult. From Passo Fedaia, towards Porta Vescovo, the beautiful Ferrata delle Trincee; in Val de Contrin la Funds for the Colac, la Ferrata Ombretta e la Ferrata at Col Ombert.

    ▲Gallery
    Technical data
    • DifficultyModerately Hard
    • RegionTrentino-Alto Adige
    • GroupMarmolada
    • Approach3:00 h
    • Ferrata2:15 h
    • Itinerary (a/r)7:30 h
    • Hardware level difference443 m
    • Route difference720 m
    • Max3343 m
    • Length7 Km
  • Ferrata di Preore (Giro Artpinistico delle Niere)

    Ferrata di Preore (Giro Artpinistico delle Niere)

    Vie Ferrate › Trentino-Alto Adige › Trento
    Ferrata di Preore (Giro Artpinistico delle Niere)
    Moderately Hard● OpenDescriptionComplexityMapsGallery

    The Ferrata di Preore, also known as Giro Artpinistico delle Niere, is a pleasant low-altitude street near Preore, near Tione di Trento. Alterna easy and moderately difficult passages and has the unique characteristic of accompanying many traits with works of art in wood, from which the name "artpinistico".

    ▲Approach

    Coming from Trento or Riva del Garda, just before Tione a roundabout points to the right the climb to Preore. Enter the village, on the left there are directions to Passo Daone and Larzana; after the first bend you park at the picnic area of the rock gym. Starting point on Google Maps. From the parking lot you go to the gym, from which you leave two paths: you hold the right (the one left will be the return) and, climbed some tiring wooden steps, you reach the attack with the white plate (5' from the parking lot).

    ▲The path

    The street begins with a diagonal stretch to the left that wanders an easy edge; a step is set up to the most demanding point, a vertical wall on the right with good natural but a little distant from each other. Besides an easy dihedron follows a vertical wall with some metal brackets, then a series of small rocks closes the first part, the more vertical. Continue on the path and cenges without difficulty (where exposed are assured), in the most rich section of works of art; climb into the wood until a characteristic staircase between two narrow rocky walls and a panoramic balcony, beyond which begins the second part equipped, with a long horizontal traverse exposed but well appreciated. Attached a edge, after a short vertical and a stretch of wood you get to a bell, where an optional suspended bridge offers a variant that meets shortly after the original route. It follows a not difficult traverse on the right (with the book of signatures), a well-equipped vertical wall, a short traverse on the left and a couple of easy descents; the path then descends into the wood, always between wooden sculptures, where the equipment ends (about 1h 30' of equipped path).

    ▲Character and difficulty

    Ferrata varies and fun that concentrates the technical difficulties in the first vertical section; the rest is a succession of paths and paths equipped at low altitude.

    ⚠ Although easy in the complex, the first section requires familiarity with the vertical; suspended bridge and beams are exposed. Helmet and essential hardware set.
    ▲Period and safety

    The low altitude makes it accessible practically all year round, with dry rock.

    ▲Discipline

    You descend along the path until you return to the rock gym and then to the parking (10' from the end of the equipment, about 1h 45' total).

    ▲To match

    In the area, towards Trento, the two difficult Ferrata Pisetta e Ferrata Segata, reserved for well-trained experts; easier but very long Ferrata Che Guevara. To Riva del Garda the easy Ferrata Rio Sallagoni e la Ferrata Colodri.

    ▲Gallery
    Technical data
    • DifficultyModerately Hard
    • RegionTrentino-Alto Adige
    • GroupJudges
    • Approach0:05 h
    • Ferrata1:30 h
    • Itinerary (a/r)1:45 h
    • Hardware level difference260 m
    • Route difference270 m
    • Max812 m
    • Length1,3 Km
  • Ferrata di Punta Marmotta (Murmele)

    Ferrata di Punta Marmotta (Murmele)

    Vie Ferrate › Trentino-Alto Adige › Bolzano
    Ferrata di Punta Marmotta (Murmele)
    Moderately Hard● OpenDescriptionComplexityMapsGallery

    The Ferrata di Punta Marmotta is a recent route that dates back to a granite spur above the Nino Corsi Refuge, in Val Martello (Stelvio National Park). It is excellently protected: easy in the first two sections and more challenging in the third (evitable), for a moderately difficult set. Attention to the exposure to the north, which keeps it in shadow much of the day.

    ▲Approach

    Start from the bottom of the Val Martello (Martelltal), valley perpendicular to the Val Venosta: from Goldrano you enter the valley and continue south for about 30 km, over Ganda di Martello and Lake Gioveretto, up to the parking area. Starting point on Google Maps. The first reference is the comfortable refuge Genziana (2051 m), where the valley ends; from here in about 30' you go up to the refuge Nino Corsi (2265 m) for one of the paths 151, 36 or 37 (the 151 is the most direct and allows you to reach the ferrata without passing from the refuge). From the Nino Corsi, in the west direction, you can see Punta Murmele; following the path, at a first crossroad you hold the right (left go down the path of return) and in short you arrive to the attack, in shadow (45' without haste from the parking lot).

    ▲The path

    The street consists of three sections separated by two escape routes to the left, which lead to the return path. The first climbs to the left alternating short vertical stretches to the right, with reduced difficulty; after 30-40 meters you will meet the first escape route. They follow easy rocks and a right-hand side, panoramic, then some diagonal leaps with a couple of passages a little more challenging until the second escape route: here it is best to evaluate if to continue, because the last section is tougher, with a considered difficult passage and a little athletic. The third section begins easy and leads to a more demanding wall, with a right-handed traverse from the good supports for the feet but few sockets for the hands; then you get to the key passage, a roof wandering on the right that goes up with some brackets, in good exposure and with a certain athletic point but not difficult; besides, a vertical wall and the last rocks close the way.

    ▲Character and difficulty

    The escape routes and increasing difficulties make it an excellent learning ferrata; pleasant environment and still at relatively low altitude.

    ⚠ The exposure to the north holds it in shade and cool for most of the day: take into account for clothing and for the presence of moisture or snow residues at the beginning of the season.
    ▲Discipline

    From the end you follow the trail that brings you back to the refuge (15'), from which you return to the parking lot for one of the paths of sighting (3h total). If you want to stretch, after the ferrata you can graft on path 103 and climb to the Rifugio Martello (2600 m), with magnificent views over the glaciers of Marmotta and Cevedale.

    ▲To match

    Going back to Val Venosta, towards Merano: la Ferrata Hoachwool e la Ferrata Knott in Naturno, and the Ferrata Heini Holzer to the Picco Ivigna; going up to Solda the high altitude routes Ferrata Tabaretta to the Ortles and the Cengles Croda Ferrata, e la Ferrata di Trafoi along the state of Stelvio.

    ▲Gallery
    Technical data
    • DifficultyModerately Hard
    • RegionTrentino-Alto Adige
    • GroupOrtles-Cevedale
    • Approach0:45 h
    • Ferrata1:30 h
    • Itinerary (a/r)3:00 h
    • Hardware level difference100 m
    • Route difference290 m
    • Max2340 m
    • Length4,7 Km
  • Ferrata Pizzo Recastello

    Ferrata Pizzo Recastello

    Vie Ferrate › Lombardia › Bergamo
    Ferrata Pizzo Recastello
    Moderately Hard● OpenDescriptionComplexityMapsGallery

    The climb to the Pizzo Recastello is one of the classic routes of Orobie. The equipped section is short and dates back to a detritic canal not difficult but from the unstable background; the itinerary in the complex is however long, with almost 2000 m of altitude difference in an imposing mountain environment.

    ▲Approach

    The starting point is Grumetti, in the municipality of Valbondione, in the upper Val Seriana (Bergamo): from Valbondione go straight to Grumetti, parking in the beach at the end of the road. Starting point on Google Maps. You go up the path 332 towards the artificial lake of the Barbellino, reaching on its shore the Hostel Curò (about 2h 15' from the parking lot). The right is held along the southern shore of the lake to a clear crossroads, where you climb on the path 321 in the Val Cerviera; you go up towards the walls of the Pizzo Recastello while keeping on the left the river (in front you will see the imposing Pizzo Coca). Where the valley is tightened you cross the creek and, following the signs, you go to the south wall; carefully follow a trace with some red stamp on pietrisco and drain until you find the rocky canal where the via equipped (3h 30' from the parking lot).

    ▲The path

    You go up a rocky canal very climbing, with the chain on the right: the climb is steep but well-tended and you go climbing without excessive tractions on the cable (difficulty never beyond the II degree). After a first steep stretch there is a more supported one and then a third again steep, with almost absent exposure; in about 15' it comes out from the canal and ends the equipment. Then follow a track that cuts diagonally the wall and leads to the final crest, in good exposure with Lake Barbellino a thousand meters lower; between climbs and easy small rocks (insidious if wet) you reach the summit cross of Pizzo Recastello (2886 m, about 4h 30'-5h from the parking lot), with views of Orobie, Bernina and Adamello.

    ▲Character and difficulty

    Technically the equipped road is contained (channel of 2nd degree), but it should be framed in a long climb of high mountain; the detritic bottom of the canal requires caution.

    ⚠ The main objective risk is the fall of stones, from those who precede or from those who fall back: wear the helmet just started the canal.
    ▲Period and safety

    High-altitude summer climb; the length and altitude difference impose departure at dawn and good energy management.

    ▲Discipline

    You go down backwards through the route, via equipped, up to the Curò hut already visible from the summit. A recommended variant: coming to the Barbellino Lake near the Curò, you keep the left on path 304/306 for a return different from the first part of the route; the 304 runs in falsepiano south bypassing Monte Verme and in about 20' leads to a crossroad where you keep the right downhill on the 305 signpost, which after a steep stretch enters the wood and returns to the parking lot of Grumetti (about 9-10h total).

    ▲To match

    For those staying in the area: from the hut Barbellino you can face the next day the Ferrata at Pizzo Strinato, with a similar but longer character, or the neighbor Ferrata al Pizzo del Becco. In the area Presolana the easiest Ferrata del Monte Sarrandone; going down to the city Ferrata Maurizio, la Ferrata alla Madonnina del Coren and, towards Lecco, the Ferrata at Monte Ocone.

    ▲Gallery
    Technical data
    • DifficultyModerately Hard
    • RegionLombardy
    • GroupAlps
    • Approach3:30 h
    • Ferrata0:20 h
    • Itinerary (a/r)9:00 h
    • Route difference1950 m
    • Max2886 m
  • Ferrata al Pizzo del Becco

    Ferrata al Pizzo del Becco

    Vie Ferrate › Lombardia › Bergamo
    Ferrata al Pizzo del Becco
    Moderately Hard● OpenDescriptionComplexityMapsGallery

    The Ferrata al Pizzo del Becco is a short stretch equipped with no technical difficulties of importance, but inserted in a long and challenging itinerary: before and after the equipment there are rocks exposed to face in free, where it serves foot. The environment, in the heart of the Bergamo Orobies, is wild and isolated.

    ▲Approach

    The starting point is the Baite di Mezzeno, above Roncobello in Val Brembana: from Roncobello you continue on the road first paved and then dirt until you end at the huts, where you park. Starting point on Google Maps. Take the path 215 uphill, which enters almost immediately into the woods; exit on the pastures of height you reach a crossroads where you keep the right towards the Rifugio Laghi Gemelli. The path is steeped to the Mezzeno Pass (2140 m), beyond which a pier, and in a half hour leads to the refuge (2h from the parking lot). Cross the dam of the lake passing on the other side, continue on dirt road to Lake Colombo and cross it on a second dam; just beyond a red sign indicates to keep the left. Approaching the walls of the Pizzo del Becco you follow a clear track first, then the white-red signs on path and rocks, up to the chain that gives start to the ferrata (1h 15' from the shelter, 3h 15' total).

    ▲The path

    The equipped stretch covers less than 100 m of altitude difference and has in fact only two vertical points. You start in a well-dressed dihedron, you pass a prominence and turn left on some rocks up to a small terrace where it is worth turning for the nice eye shot on Lake Colombo. Then a second vertical wall rises, with excellent hooks for hands and feet, up to a final exit slot; the chain folds right and on a more coricated wall, with the cable as a simple balance, you reach the end of the equipment (20' from the attack, about 3h 40' total). Continue on uphill track, on easy but exposed rocks, up to the Forcella del Valico (from which to the right would descend the normal way); for the final ridge there are some rocks and a last stretch equipped up to the summit cross (20' from the end of the ferrata, 4h total).

    ▲Character and difficulty

    The equipped part is easy and the chain, not very tense, serves seldom; the commitment lies in the length of the itinerary and in the stretches of exposed rocks, uphill and downhill, to be covered independently.

    ⚠ Wearing the helmet just started the rocky area: the main risk is the fall of stones on who goes up or down. Beware of moisture on the rocks before and after the ferrata after recent rains.
    ▲Period and safety

    High mountain road, to be covered in summer with dry rock; the isolated environment requires good autonomy.

    ▲Discipline

    From the cross you go back to the Forcella del Valico, where you can choose if you redefine the ferrata crossed uphill (40' from the summit, be careful not to move stones on who is below) or follow straight signs towards Passo di Sardegnana; in both cases you arrive at Lake Colombo (1h 15' from the summit). From here you go back to the approach path to the parking lot (1h 30' from Lake Colombo, about 6h 15' total).

    ▲To match

    It is part of a long itinerary that leaves little energy for another day, but the Orobie Park and Bergamo offer many equipped to join in several days: the Ferrata Guerino Rossi al Pizzo Strinato, la Ferrata at Monte Ocone, la Ferrata alla Madonnina del Coren, la Ferrata Maurizio and, in Val Brembana, the Ferrata di Santa Croce alla Corna Maria.

    ▲Gallery
    Technical data
    • DifficultyModerately Hard
    • RegionLombardy
    • GroupAlps
    • Approach3:15 h
    • Ferrata0:20 h
    • Itinerary (a/r)6:15 h
    • Hardware level difference70 m
    • Route difference1200 m
    • Max2507 m
    • Length17,2 Km
  • Ferrata at Piz de Peres

    Ferrata at Piz de Peres

    Vie Ferrate › Trentino-Alto Adige › Bolzano
    Ferrata at Piz de Peres
    Moderately Hard● OpenDescriptionComplexityMapsGallery

    Inaugurated in 2022 between San Vigilio di Marebbe (Val Badia) and Valdaora (Val Pusteria), a stone's throw from Plan de Corones, the Ferrata al Piz de Peres leads to the panoramic peak of the same name (2507 m). It is a dolomitic mold, of average difficulty with a couple of more challenging points, alternating diedri, walls, canals and stretches of crest exposed with view on the large groups of the Dolomites.

    ▲Approach

    From the Furcia Pass, on the winding road that connects San Vigilio di Marebbe to Valdaora. Starting point on Google Maps. On the south side you follow path 3 to a crossroads, where you climb steeply on path 12B; pass the refuge and the lifts intersect the path 12, which rises from San Vigilio on the slope of Val Badia. It follows uphill to a clear sign, where you hold the right and in short you reach the attack (about 1h 20' from the parking lot).

    ▲The path

    An all' sign; attack shows the three sections, separated by two escape routes. The prima starts with small rocks equipped to the right; you pass a cave and a wall, then a right nod and, on beautiful exposure, you climb a pillar of medium difficult and pleasant and climbing. The road continues vertically between short terraces up to a transfer nod to the right, where the equipment ends; some rocky leaps lead all' crossroads with path 12, where you can può close (on the left the 12 reports all' attack, on the right you climb to the summit). The seconda section — i «tre denti», the più challenging — starts with a vertical wall hand-marked but hard; with beams to the right you reach a short suspension bridge, then a vertical and exposed but well climbing wall leads to the ridge wire, with never difficult aerial passages, up to a saddle. The second tooth is vertical and challenging; a path along the third tooth avoiding the più passages; hard, while those who complete the third tooth climbs vertically up to a slightly overhanging wall (hard-grade passage), then again on the ridge between ups and downs to the saddle where the second section ends (right a way to escape to path 12). The terza, the più easy, & easy; a long series of jumps and short walls along the crest that leads to the end of the equipment, now in sight of the summit (about 2h from' attack, 3h 15' from the parking lot). From here a path in 15' it reaches the cross of the Piz de Peres (2507 m), about 800 m above the Furcia Pass (3h 30' total).

    ▲Character and difficulty

    Altogether average difficulty, with the key points (the wall of the first tooth and the overhanging of the third) of difficult and exposed degree. Equipment in good condition.

    ⚠ The two escape routes allow to reduce the effort by skipping the hardest teeth. As a crest exposed at altitude, it is advisable to start with stable weather and snow free canals.
    ▲Period and safety

    Summer itinerary of medium-high altitude: indicated from late spring to autumn, with dry rock and bottom of the canals.

    ▲Discipline

    Two options. You can go back to path 12, which runs parallel to the ferrata, up to the attack and then to the parking lot. Or — recommended the ring — from the opposite side to the uphill one goes down to the Forcella delle Tre Dita (2330 m, about 30'), then left along the valley up to the wide path 3 that leads back to the forest to the Furcia Pass (about 2h from the summit, 5h 30' total).

    ▲To match

    The road rises between two valleys rich in ferrate. Not far, on the side of Valdaora, the Ferrata di ValdaoraThe whole of Val Badia and Val Pusteria also offer numerous other routes equipped to concatenate in the following days.

    ▲Gallery
    Technical data
    • DifficultyModerately Hard
    • RegionTrentino-Alto Adige
    • GroupDolomiti – Plan de Corones
    • Approach1:20 h
    • Ferrata2:00 h
    • Itinerary (a/r)5:30 h
    • Hardware level difference250 m
    • Route difference720 m
    • Max2507 m
    • Length5,5 Km
  • Ferrata dei Picasass al Monte Camoscio

    Ferrata dei Picasass al Monte Camoscio

    Vie Ferrate › Piemonte › Verbano-Cusio-Ossola
    Ferrata dei Picasass al Monte Camoscio
    Moderately Hard● OpenDescriptionComplexityMapsGallery

    The Ferrata dei Picasass is a recent and well-equipped street on the excellent Baveno granite, above Lake Maggiore. It is exposed uphill, with a challenging key passage — a overhanging horizontal traverse that bypasses a spy plane — and in the final offers a long and exciting bridge of the monkeys.

    ▲Approach

    Departure from Baveno (Verbano-Cusio-Ossola): follow the campsite La Tranquilla, behind which you will find via alle Cave, where you can search for parking (also in via Sesena). Starting point on Google Maps. From Via alle Cave you take a road uphill (white-red signs and a sign for the ferrata), first asphalt then dirt road; you cross the highway and, at a crossroad, you hold the right following the sign for the Picasass until the attack (45' from the parking lot).

    ▲The path

    It attaches a beautiful vertical wall, where brackets and excellent rock allow to proceed also in adherence; it bends left in an easy traverse and goes up a wall full of hooks, then another traverse to the left and a new vertical wall with abundant brackets. After a right nod and another wall you arrive at the key passage: a transverse overhanging exposure that bypasses a edge — not very difficult but with good demand of arms and clear exposure, short (three mosquitoes) and adrenaline; a low support helps not to pull too much on the cable. There is a boulder and a vertical wall with a short overhanging, then a long aerial wall but not difficult on brackets; a traverse on the right leads to another wall and therefore to more lean rock, climbed into adherence to the suspended bridge. The long bridge of the three-string monkeys is very exciting (adjustable on the path for those who prefer); beyond the bridge an easy wall leads to the summit cross, where the ferrata ends with beautiful view on Lake Maggiore (1h 30' from the attack, 2h 15' total).

    ▲Character and difficulty

    Pleasant, vertical and exposed but never too difficult, on excellent rock. The overhanging cross is the highlight; the bridge, long and adrenaline, is in a stable complex.

    ▲Discipline

    From the end follow the well marked path M3 to the junction of the approach and, backwards, to the car (45' from the end, 3h total).

    ▲To match

    For those looking for extreme difficulties, the Ferrata Miccia starts a few meters beyond the Picasass, on the same wall but much harder. In the day you can reach the ferrates of Varallo, the Falconera e il Partusac; in high Piedmont Macugnaga Guides.

    ▲Gallery
    Technical data
    • DifficultyModerately Hard
    • RegionPiedmont
    • GroupLake Maggiore
    • Approach0:45 h
    • Ferrata1:30 h
    • Itinerary (a/r)3:00 h
    • Hardware level difference320 m
    • Route difference530 m
    • Max890 m
    • Length5,1 Km
  • Ferrata Piero Rossi at Forcella Marmol

    Ferrata Piero Rossi at Forcella Marmol

    Vie Ferrate › Veneto › Belluno
    Ferrata Piero Rossi at Forcella Marmol
    Moderately Hard● OpenDescriptionComplexityMapsGallery

    Ferrata Piero Rossi (formerly Ferrata Marmol) climbs to Forcella Marmol in the Schiara group. It is of medium technical difficulty, but it develops in a severe and demanding environment, with a very long itinerary; it lends itself to numerous combinations with the other ferrates of the Schiara.

    ▲Approach

    Departure from Case Bortot (Belluno): from Belluno follow Bolzano Bellunese and the Parco delle Dolomiti Bellunesi, over Gioz, up to Case Bortot, where the road ends in a small street. Starting point on Google Maps. From the parking lot (695 m) follow the CAI 501 towards Rifugio VII Alpini: you descend to the Ponte del Mariano (30'), you ignore the junction with 507 and you climb to the forest along the Ardo stream until the clearing of Rifugio VII Alpini (1502 m, 2h 45'). Behind the shelter follow the CAI 503 signs towards the attack of Ferrata Zacchi, with which Piero Rossi shares the first hundred meters; passing through the characteristic Porton you reach the attack of Zacchi (45' from the refuge, 3h 30' total).

    ▲The path

    The first section is in common with the Ferrata Zacchi: immediately challenging attack (a few vertical meters and a right traverse on good rock and graded), then a flat stretch that enters a gorge with some ladders, a nod on the left and a horizontal plane under other exposed ladders, finally a canal with climbing traits and brackets. Cessate the equipment, a link path leads to the crossroads between Piero Rossi and Zacchi: the right is held and the real Ferrata Piero Rossi begins towards the Forcella Marmol. An unprotected nod leads to the southeastern slope of the Schiara in a first throat; the nod becomes equipped until a descent of about 8 meters, then wanders a throat (often snowy at the beginning of the season) and continues on climbing balconies under the looming walls of the Schiara, alternating cenges, rocks and path. Attached another cove, some ladders and a vertical tract precede a short break on the path, prelude to the more vertical section: plaques and walls with a fireplace with a zigzag cable, to be climbed into the split. Continue right on horizontal and diagonal traits and another vertical stretch on good rock, up to the path leading to the Bivacco Bocco Zago (2266 m, 2h 30' from the attack). Beyond the bivouac a vertical wall and a stretch on the left, then another stretch equipped with a view on the Cadore groups; past the crossroads for the east ridge of the Schiara descends the last stretch equipped to the Forcella Marmol (2262 m, 3h from the attack), where the itinerary ends.

    ▲Character and difficulty

    Medium technical difficulty in harsh and spectacular Dolomite environment. Often inserted in the classic ring of the Schiara (salita con Zacchi o Sperti, summit with the Berti, return downhill with Piero Rossi, the easiest of the three downhill).

    ⚠ Itinerary very long (about 18 km and 1566 m of altitude difference): strongly recommended to break it in two or more days, staying at the refuge or in one of the bivouac at the altitude. Beware of the snowing of the gorges, which can complicate the way.
    ▲History

    The ferrata is dedicated to the alpinist and writer Piero Rossi (1930), a great connoisseur of the Belluno Dolomites and among the promoters of the National Park, author of the volume on the Schiara of the series Guida dei Monti d'Italia. It was inaugurated in 1967, redesigning the descent from the Forcella Marmol and avoiding the old way to the Gola del Canalone, subject to frequent drains of stones.

    ▲Discipline

    From the Forcella Marmol more options: climb to the Pelf (1h 30') with the exhibited Sentiero Attrezzato Guardiano and get off the normal way to Case Bortot (11h 30' total); or climb to the Schiara for the east ridge and get off with Ferrata Berti and then Ferrata Sperti at Rifugio VII Alpini ( ring route, 14h 30' total). The quickest route is the return to the rear end (4h 30' from the fork, 11h total).

    ▲To match

    The Schiara is full of streets. To the east the Ferrata Costacurta al Teverone; little to the north three ferrates with short approach: the Ferrata della Memoria al Vajont, la Gym of Rock of Val Gallina e la Walls of the Hawks. To the Civetta la Titus and Alleghesi.

    ▲Gallery
    Technical data
    • DifficultyModerately Hard
    • RegionVeneto
    • GroupUnited States
    • Approach3:30 h
    • Ferrata3:00 h
    • Itinerary (a/r)11:00 h
    • Hardware level difference486 m
    • Route difference1566 m
    • Max2280 m
    • Length18 Km
  • Ferrata dei Piceni in Pioraco

    Ferrata dei Piceni in Pioraco

    Vie Ferrate › Brands › Macerata
    Ferrata dei Piceni in Pioraco
    Moderately Hard● OpenDescriptionComplexityMapsGallery

    The Ferrata dei Piceni is a recent route and the only via ferrata delle Marche, near Pioraco (Macerata). It is overall easy, but has a couple of athletic traits that require a minimum of training; short and low altitude, you can travel almost all year round.

    ▲Approach

    The SP 361 goes up towards Pioraco; before the village, in correspondence of the sign "Cartiere di Fabriano", after about 200 meters you take on the left an asphalted road uphill until a small church where to park (you can see the signs of the ferrata). Starting point on Google Maps. Follow the CAI signs in the woods to the red plate that marks the beginning of the ferrata (30' from the parking lot).

    ▲The path

    The first equipped section is downhill and serves as a handrail; then there are parts equipped in the wood, of low difficulty, on rock at times muschiata (attention to adherence). You reach a wall with a slightly overhanging attack that climbs vertically with different cambres; the road follows a rather vertical line, exploiting abundant cambres on polished rock. After a horizontal stretch you get to the key passage: a vertical wall with overhanging roof that requires discreet force of arms in the first two changes of carabiner (the artificial brackets help, but it is not underrated). Passed the wall, a short ladder and still cambre, moving to the right, lead to the end of the ferrata, where is the book of the signatures (30', 1h from the parking lot).

    ▲Character and difficulty

    Interesting way in a little known environment: the smoothed rock and abundance of cambre mark the progression. Suitable for neophytes, with a couple of more athletic steps requiring a minimum of training.

    ▲Discipline

    The trail goes up to a crossroads with the signs for the return, which takes place in the woods (20' from the end, 1h 20' total).

    ▲To match

    There are no other equipped routes in the surroundings. The nearest are on Gran Sasso: la Ferrata Danesi, the Ferrata Ricci and, on the southern slope, the Ferrata al Bivacco Bafile and the long Path of the Centenary; in Umbria the Ferrata delle Gole del Serra.

    ▲Gallery
    Technical data
    • DifficultyModerately Hard
    • RegionMarche
    • GroupApennine Umbro-Marche
    • Approach0:30 h
    • Ferrata0:30 h
    • Itinerary (a/r)1:20 h
    • Hardware level difference200 m
    • Route difference377
    • Max768 m
    • Length2,7 Km
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