La Ferrata in Cima Nove (Sasso delle Nove) is a short stretch equipped — the last 100 meters before the cross — placed at the end of a long and challenging high mountain route in Val Badia. Technically it is not prohibitive, but runs along a wall very exposed, especially on the southern placconata characteristic, in a solitary and austere environment with some exposed and unprotected passages. The summit touches the 2968 m.
Starting point the Rifugio Pederù (1548 m), reachable from San Vigilio di Marebbe following the signs «Pederù» già in the village, on asphalted road up to ' wide parking. Open road signs on Google Maps. From the hut follow the wide tourist path 7 to the south in the Fanes Valley, quickly touching the Pices Fanes Refuge (2007 m), the Fanes Refuge (2060 m, short optional deviation) and the Lavarella Refuge (2050 m, 1h 30' from departure). From here you take the marker 13 verso nord, a destra, sul Piano delle Sarenes, salendo costantemente fino al Passo di Sant'Antonio (Ju de Sant'Antone, 2466 m, 2h 30' totali). Si lascia il 13 e, seguendo il cartello, si sale verso est su un ripido ghiaione con alcuni bolli rossi e facili roccette fino a una sella prativa con vista su Cima Dieci e Cima Nove; qui i segni finiscono ma si segue a vista la cresta verso nord-ovest, fra precipizi su entrambi i lati, fino all'attacco delle attrezzature (2800 m, 3h 30' totali).
The ferrata exceeds about 100 meters. The first sections ensure a well-graded crest near the precipice of the north wall, più similar to an equipped path; then you move on the south side, più exposed, where the cable continues without difficulty; techniques on moderate slope up to a rock where the cable stops and resumes two pi & pigrave meters; ahead. Here begins the più tract; interesting: a long and plane traverse to the left on a smooth placconata to be covered in adherence. The cable then goes up più vertical towards a stretch of very aerial edge, on strong exposure, up to a difficult & agrave medium camino; — the passage probably più technical, però enough supported. Un' last tilted plaque and some exposed top rocks close the equipment (45' from' attack). Continue on gravel slope to the cross of Cima Nove (2968 m, 15' from the end of the equipment, 4h 30' totali).
The road does not have any technical difficulties but it develops on a very exposed wall, with smooth and vertical plates that can put in difficulty those who have little experience or non-stop foot; the equipped passages however alternate at times without difficulty.
Alternatively, you can start from Spescia (1549 m) in Val Badia by steeply climbing the path 13 along the Fanes Valley to the Ju de Sant'Antone: shorter as a distance but more tiring and steep (about 7h a/r). GPS tracks (GPX and KMZ) are available; the 4Land Val Badia map is useful for the area.
The Sasso delle Nove is a particular mountain: its long sloped southern wall was climbed by the Messner brothers with three itineraries of pure adhesion (Direttissima, Heidi, Placche), at the end of the Sixties real test benches, finally faced with rigid boots. The most repeated is today the very Direct Messner.
The return takes place back along l' ascent itinerary, including ferrata (3h 30' from the summit, 8h totali).
Cima Nove is the northern peak of the Sasso della Croce Group, where there is also the often combined ferrata at the Sasso della Croce and Cima Ten. Further south on the group run Sentiero Attrezzato Tru Dolomieu and the long Ferrata della Pace; towards Lake Braies easy Ferrata di Valdaora alla Cima dei Colli Alti and, at the Furcia Pass, the Ferrata at Piz de Peres.
- DifficultyModerately Hard
- RegionTrentino-Alto Adige
- GroupRock of the Cross
- Approach3:30 h
- Ferrata1:00 h
- Itinerary (a/r)8:00 h
- Hardware level difference110 m
- Route difference1424 m
- Max2968 m
- Length19 Km
